We can't enjoy typhoon swell these days as typhoons don't pass through the east side of Kyushu, where I live.
But finally, the
long-awaited typhoon swell hit the other day.
So I went to the spot where I could enjoy that typhoon swell.
When I arrived at the spot, the size of a wave was already more than double.
It's been a long time since I saw a wave of this size.
We've had many days with too small a wave or no wave so far this year, which is rare in this area.
We humans had to stay home due to COVID-19 for a while, and it seems a wave did so, too.
Anyway, today I have a good wave, so I'm so excited!
Moreover, there are plenty of beautiful goofy waves, which are hard to find at home recently.
My home spot used to break some beautiful goofy waves until a few years ago, but now it doesn't.
Therefore, I was hoping to practice on a goofy wave.
I started with a longboard.
It was a high tide day and I hit the low tide, so the water was pretty shallow.
I had to concentrate on doing some maneuvers after one turn following a nose riding in the first section, while I had to be careful not to break the board and to keep fins from getting caught on the bottom in the end section.
It was a good practice though it was hard.
Then I changed the boards.
Time to practice for shortboarding.
I rarely ride on a goofy wave as I mentioned above, so I'm not good at air reverse on a goofy wave.
It can only be done under the right conditions, so it's not just a matter of having goofy waves.
However, today luckily other conditions are also pretty good for air reverse.
So today is a perfect day for practicing air reverse.
There is no way I can do something I have never done before, so anyway practice!
I surfed the whole day today.
tired, but so satisfied with a perfect day.